A Californian living in Sweden

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Fika is a Word that Means Coffee

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Fika is a word that means coffee.

But fika is a Swedish word that means more than just coffee. It also means coffee break; as in stop what you are doing, relax, drink coffee and talk to a friend. Of course, coffee alone is not really fika. Fika needs carbs like nachos need cheese. So Fika culture is all about baked goods, cinnamon rolls, carrot cake, chocolate-coconut balls, even an open-faced sandwich of local cheese and cucumber will do in a pinch.

Last week Sweden celebrated Kanelbullens Dag. Cinnamon bun day. It is a real thing, every October 4th. The local grocery store had a huge display of fresh cinnamon rolls, 5 for 25 kroners, about $3. I bought a bag of them for a very happy teenager just coming home from school.

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And that is Fika at its best, mid-afternoon, mom and son, talking in the kitchen. How was your day?

Its easily one of my favorite Swedish delights.

Today I Mailed a Letter

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“Theresa Mailed a Letter.”

That title reminds me more of a children’s book than an adult expat’s blog. But the thing is, I am kind of like a child here. Someone on one of my social media groups said it best when another member was complaining about the difficulty of finding work here without knowing Swedish. He said, “Look, basically you are like a four-year-old until you learn their language. “

And he is right. I have to ask for everything, in English, and hope that the clerk will be happy to oblige me in my ignorance.  Luckily for me, right now, Swedish people seem to really enjoy speaking in English. English is taught universally in schools, so speaking English well is a mark of education, prestige. The only non-English speakers are older Swedes and immigrants from non-English speaking countries. And even then, older Swedes often understand English but are shy about using it.

I understand that too.  I am picking up new words every day, especially written words, but I am a little terrified of having to actually use them. It is not helpful to my long-term learning that everyone is so quick to put me out of my misery and converse in English.

One small advantage that I have is that I look like I should speak Swedish, so often clerks speak to me in Swedish first and I make it a game to see how far I can go without admitting that I have no idea what they have just said. There have been many times that I have interacted with a cashier, never saying a word, only understanding half of what he said, and he never knew it. I am pretty good with nonverbal cues, and it is amazing how far that goes.

Hi.

Is this all you want?

Great. Put your credit card there.

Sign there.

Take that stuff you just bought.

See you later.

Tack!

But some basic adult life tasks require more than just language acquisition skills. Simply being able to speak the same language is not enough. Customs and etiquette are different. In fact, the whole government system of health care and schools and registration is just a little bit different here. A small task that I took for granted at home can seem like a mini crisis here, like mailing a registration form to a government office.

So let’s break it down.

The first step is to translate the form. That is not too difficult with Google Translate, but even if Google Translate fails, I can always call the government office, wait on hold forever while thinking about my American mobile phone bill’s international calling plan. Once I have the form filled, I have to get to a post office and mail it.

And here is complication number two. It has been explained to me that Sweden does not have post offices any more. They don’t use checks either, so if you need to make a payment that is a whole different set of hoops beginning with trips to the migration office and the tax office, then fingerprinting and official ID photographs, culminating in several in-person, appointment-only visits to the bank before you can make an electronic payment.  It literally takes weeks, if not months, before you can electronically send someone money, a big problem for newcomers in an almost cashless society.

But assuming that all I need to do is mail the form, I have found that it works to smile and ask people in English, “Excuse me, how do I mail a letter?”

And if they are heartless and under 30 they look at you like you are a 4-year-old.

Duh. Put a stamp on it and put it in one of the yellow boxes that are everywhere.

But where do I get a stamp if there are no post offices?

You can buy them at grocery stores, office supply stores. You know, the same places that you can buy stamps in the US.

Oh, of course. I can do that.

And they are right. It is really easy. Even a 4-year-old could do it.

A Drizzly Saturday Morning in the Park

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I was right about the sunshine, wrong about the rain.

The sunshine did not last. Saturday morning, I woke up to grey clouds and a deep desire to get out, go for a run, breathe deeply into life. By the time I got out the door the unforgiving sky was threatening to rain. Then came a fine sprinkle and then a full London-style, persistent, wet drizzle that could almost count as rain. But I ran to the park anyway and found that unlike any 50-degree rainy Saturday in California, the park was packed, completely full of people. And it began to occur to me that Swedish people are not hindered by the California delusion that sunshine is necessary for outdoor enjoyment.

There were the usual outside people, the kind that don’t really have a choice, dog owners. But there were also plenty of other people strolling along the park’s extensive paths — couples with babies, family’s with little children on little bikes, runners of all ages, single people walking, running, just enjoying being outside in their water-resistant clothing. I saw plenty of red-cheeked smiles.

I was not wearing water resistant clothing so I was quite sweaty and rain drenched by the time I stopped at the library, which was also full of people enjoying a rainy Saturday morning in the relative tranquility of Malmö’s public library.

This place, by the way, is beautiful. Located on the edge of Malmö’s Slottsparken, this urban library is a modern architectural masterpiece. Half of the library is old, a castle-like museum that has housed books for seventy years. The other half, which was finished in the late 90s, is a massive glass box, ushering light into the main hall of bookshelves, illuminating even the grayest of days. This half is called a “Calendar of Light,” and is a perfect example of modern Scandinavian genius for drawing the light inside. I love it.

While at the library I picked up a stack of travel books to help us plan our fall escape. Our son has a week off from school at the end of October and has already planned to make his first solo international trip, going home to visit friends in LA. Kip took the week off from work, so now we just have to decide where to go. Spain? Italy? Morocco?

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We both want to get a little autumn sunshine, but we don’t want to break the bank either. I find myself checking historical weather averages of different places within reasonable travel distance. If we are going to travel, it would be nice to get a little unbottled, natural Vitamin D. I know that there is joy in the rain, but I still want to find a little sun, just for a week in October before the real winter arrives.

 

 

 

A Moment of Sunshine

I woke up to a patch of blue sky warming the cold streets where pedestrians were still scurrying, faces against the wind, hurrying on to work and the places they always go on a Friday morning.

It looked like the little blueness would work into full sunshine, if only for an hour before the clouds picked up in the afternoon. Maybe I was in a cynical mood, but I thought about Ray Bradbury’s short story, “Summer in a Day,” and felt that I had to get out. As quickly as possible.

Since I don’t yet have a place to go in the middle of a Friday morning, I grabbed my bike, the one I have hardly ridden since college but somehow made it on the shipment from California. And I rode across Malmö.

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Malmö is small and covered in designated bike paths, so it is not difficult to ride across it in less than an hour.

I rode to the beach and walked out onto one of the piers. There was a trio of older women walking together, touching hands, laughing, speaking a middle eastern language I did not recognize, letting the gentle sea breezes tease the scarfs around their faces while they posed for a picture together. A Scandinavian man rode his bicycle to the pier, walked past the women in their coats and scarves, stripped down to his shorts and jumped into the frigid ocean water. That is so Malmö.

I rode up the beach, into neighborhoods I did not know, ones still transitioning from the old industrial shipping docks to modern apartments. A few fishing boats clung to the docks, reminding the present of the past. Even human infrastructure has a limited purpose, a time and a day, a moment of usefulness. Abandoned rails nearly hidden in the sidewalk testify to that. I wondered when the newly constructed apartment buildings along the docks would be outdated and laughable.

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I stopped to observe a swan family. The “ugly ducklings,” almost the size of their mother paddled behind her gracefully, effortlessly gliding along. I wondered if they would stay for winter or fly somewhere south. I wondered when they would grow white feathers and look like their parents.

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The cob stayed behind, nonchalantly guarding his flock while serendipitously eating the water plants growing at the edge of the bay. This summer I saw a swan attack a golden retriever that had gotten to close to his cygnets. I wondered if this was the same bird. I kept a respectful distance.

Then I rode home, feeling warmed by the sun.

 

An October Run Through Pildammsparken

 

 

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Swedish geese ignoring me. I took this picture right before I realized that in my journalistic enthusiasm I had knelt in a glob of bird poop. Yay. Park life.

Its another grey October day in Malmö, but I am learning that one of the keys to enjoying life despite the clouds is just to embrace it. Get outside and move. Hike. Walk. Bike. Run.Running is best, especially since we live next to a huge urban park frequented by runners all hours of the day and evening.

This morning I ran and took pictures, just because its beautiful.

Tall green trees so big they are hard to fit in the I-Phone frame. Rich, earthy dirt. Mushrooms. Expansive lake. Water fowl. Trees just hinting that its almost time to change colors and drop leaves.

While I ran I was listening to an old favorite, John and Stasi Eldredge’s Captivating.

Nature is not primarily functional. Its primarily beautiful. Stop for a moment and let that soak in. — John and Stasi Eldredge’s Captivating

 

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When it rains almost every day, life pops up everywhere, sometimes overnight.

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Trees calling me away from the rows of apartment buildings and into the park center.

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