A Californian living in Sweden

Tag: Skåne

May, Glorious, May

Spring and Summer

Spring came abruptly and quickly gave way to summer.

I had been waiting for spring, anticipating the anticipation, and when it arrived the only thing that surprised me about it was how short-lived it seemed. One day the first yellow and purple buds were piercing through the grass, and then, a week later there were tiny buds on the trees. And then BANG – May 1st arrived and it felt like summer.

This is what spring looks like from a Swedish apartment window.

On May 1st, after a disappointingly cold and rainy Valborg night, the sun came out and the world celebrated in shorts and t-shirts. By Ascension Day, May 10, which is also a public holiday in Sweden, it was California hot.  I wore an outfit I bought for a Rio trip two years ago, and Kip and I walked to Davidshall for an impromptu date. We bought a couple of beers at a restaurant with sidewalk tables, waited for a table outside and spent the next few hours sitting in the late afternoon sun, watching all of Malmö past by on the street. There is nothing like the combination of first summer sun and a public holiday to bring the entire inhabitance out of hiding. It felt like Malmö had tripled in size.

The garden at slottsparken in the last week of April, just before the heat of May arrived.

Just a few weeks earlier, in April, the tulips bloomed in Slottsparken. By mid-May, they were gone and the park looked like summer.

Earlier in the day on May 10, I met my girls at a café in Slottsparken, one of Malmö’s gorgeous city parks. Slottsparken is literally translated, the Castle Park, and it felt like a royal experience that sunny morning. We ordered salads and veggie burgers at Slottsparken café, a charming and particularly scrumptious garden restaurant surrounded by trees in full bloom and Swedish families enjoying their prized outside culture. The café and surrounding park were full that morning, Disneyland full, of people enjoying the day —  walking, jogging, biking, paddling canoes through the park canal and playing Kubb — a Swedish block throwing game that may or may not have anything to do with Vikings. And it seemed like hundreds of people were lying on picnic blankets in sundresses, shorts, and t-shirts, or just swimming suits, soaking in the Swedish summer sun.

Sunny day brunch with the girls.

And this is still true, even three weeks later. The parks and every open green space is filled with people on picnic blankets, mostly in bikinis or shorts, soaking in the sun.

Celebrations

In May we also celebrated River’s birthday. It was his first birthday spent away from his friends in California, which was a little sad, but it provided an opportunity for us to invite some of his new friends home for a breakfast-for-dinner party in our apartment.

Jenga anyone?

One group of friends got together and bought River a box of Swedish treats, both good and quirky things that represent Sweden – the best candy and chocolate, the traditional crackers, meatballs, hot chocolate, super salty liquorice and a can of surströmming, the infamous Swedish fermented fish which has been named among the world’s worst smelling food —  a heartfelt box of welcome whose generous gesture was not wasted on any of us.

And then we asked them to sing the Swedish Happy Birthday song.

For Kip and me, it was a really important moment. The long days, the sun, River’s new friends, it seemed like we had turned a corner in our experience here. We had made it through the winter in Sweden, and our son had finally made good friends, and that made being here so much easier.

And More Reasons to Celebrate

Taking our Colorado college kid for a hike in Sweden

And then, a few days later, Micah came back to Sweden.

Micah has been in college since August, a full 8 time zones away from us. When she left for school it was difficult for all three of us left behind. It was a sorrow intensified by the distance and the disorientation of being in a new country with new expectations and rules. But it was also a sorrow soothed by watching her mature and grow intellectually. I am sure it is an experience that every good parent has, sorrow for the childhood that is over, joy for the adult who has emerged. But getting her back for a few months this summer was just cotton candy, the icing on the cake.

Last Day of May

As I am writing this blog post it is the last day of May and we are still amazed at the good weather here in Sweden. It has truly been a month of California weather with sunny skies and warm temperatures, and it seems too good to be true. In a few weeks, River will be finished with school and we will begin a truly busy season of summer visitors and road trip adventures, but for now, we have enjoyed this month of summer bliss. There is nothing like a good, long winter to make the summer so special.

The canola fields in bloom. Kip took this picture on his way home from work, and its a perfect example of the Swedish Skåne countryside.

Random Saturday Road Trip through Skåne

Mid afternoon light on the Eastern shore in November.

This morning we woke up late, sleeping like teenagers on a Saturday morning. The sun woke me up, breaking through the cloud cover for the first time in days, shining through the heavy curtains.

“Wake up! The sun is shining!”

It was 10 a.m. and with the curtains thrown back the light poured, I mean, poured, into the bedroom like warm liquid joy.

Within an hour we were talking about getting in the car and getting out, seeing a little bit more of Skåne County. Coffee and showers and cat chores later, we were on the road, just as the clouds were beginning to reconvene. We headed North and East anyway, toward the Baltic Sea.

With a car, or a train, it is possible to escape the city in just a few minutes. Malmö stops abruptly and expansive farm fields takes its place. Modern wind turbines dot the fields, alongside the stout remnants of traditional windmills that once dominated the windy landscape. And when the farmland stops, thick Swedish woods gather around lakes and cabins. Then the woods gives way to orderly little small towns with modern cottages and red tiled roofs and Volvos parked out front, and then the whole pattern repeats itself.

River picked the music, his 90s Spotify playlist, and everything out the window began to look familiar, like little bits of Wisconsin, West Virginia or Pennsylvania, the places I spent time in the 90s.

We saw several apple stands, and I lamented that we had not brought cash, until we passed a self-serve, Swish payment apple stand. We turned around and bought a bag. That would not have happened in California!

This requires a moment of recognition for my US readers. In Sweden, an almost cashless society, there is an electronic money exchange system that works with smart phones. You just open an app, type in a phone number and money amount, and your payment is made. It is as fast as swiping your card and signing a receipt. And the beauty of this apple stand experience is that it was also self-serve. The farmer, based on traditional Swedish culture values and modern technology, set his bags of apples in front of his apple orchards with a Swish payment sign. In a small way it represents the best of Swedish culture – cutting-edge technology, local-grown produce, self-service and an expectation of honesty. Amazing!

We drove until we found a national park along the sea. We walked to the water, watched a family in winter coats and hats running along the sand, two little girls walking out in the waves in their snow boots, laughing when the waves chased them back into the shore. It looked so much like kids in Malibu in winter, wanting to be in the waves that are too cold to swim in.

When the sun went down, around 4, we began heading back home, promising ourselves to do it again. It’s good to get out.

 

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